“I may not know much about ____ , but I know what I like,” was a phrase my dad often employed to laugh off his relative ignorance of various aspects of culture valued by high-society, as some may term it.
Things can be appreciated and understood on different levels. Grasping the plot of a Mozart opera certainly helps, as does perceiving the hidden meaning in a Shakespeare play. Even watching a professional darts match in all its simplicity is more enjoyable if you can relate to what’s going on.
The same could be said of the recent Temir Dank Sun event, held at a Mercedes-Benz showroom in Almaty, which I was assured early on was a performance rather than a fashion show. I alternately wandered aimlessly and mingled purposefully in the car dealer’s, two floors totally packed out by people who plainly knew far more about what was going on than I did.
Cue dad: I may not know much about vogue, but I know what I like.
Ainur Turisbek didn’t let the side down. The holder of a PhD in Law, she is now a leading Kazakh fashion designer who has ranked among those driving the industry forward in her country for some 15 years, and includes household names such as Dimash Qudaibergen among her clients.
She is inspired by human nature and, in her own words, this time spoken in Russian despite her excellent English:
“An individual approach to each piece of clothing that we strive to keep in our work helps us put our hearts and souls into what we create.”
Much like me in Kazakh, she is entirely self-taught, but unlike me, she produces a flawless end product which both men and women want to be seen wearing. As a trailblazer, she has placed Kazakhstani fashion firmly on the world map, drawing on the influences of her native heritage and combining them with themes taken from sport, punk, or even service uniforms. Her remit, as she sees it, is to share positivity through her work.
Her breakthrough year was 2012, when her designs were showcased at Kazakhstan Fashion Week, upon which she took her creativity further afield, and, before making her mark in Europe, impressed fashion lovers in Ukraine, Azerbaijan, and Georgia.
This led to meetings with experts from Paris, and in turn onto the pages of fashion publications the world over; Numero, SSAW, Elle France, Vogue Italy, and L’Officiel.
Elena Starastina, a journalist with Marie Claire, is very enthusiastic about Ainur’s fashion label and the success it has had, not to mention the twin projects of CODE and ZAÝYT, which are hubs for design thinking. These offerings have become embedded in Elena’s calendar.
“Ainur is one of our few designers who works with both the domestic and the global industry in mind, and she manages to marry the two each and every time she showcases a new collection.”
Ainur talks about how going to Paris was a risk for her, notably because she grew up in a more modest culture.
“When I was younger, I wasn’t fashionable, and probably, more emphasis in our upbringing was always placed on modesty and self-improvement. Fashion seemed like something for celebrities, and I didn’t read glossy magazines; I read books.”
We might assume that it was a big leap from Kazakhstan Fashion Week to the catwalks of Paris, yet Ainur explained that, with the help of a good team, she took it in her stride.
“I simply followed the path of the fashion system that exists abroad.”
Her designs are now an established part of Paris Fashion Week and are sold at the event with regularity, and her list of partners grows by the year.
Dimash Qudaibergen, meanwhile, selling out major venues adorned in the Ainur Turisbek label hasn’t been the only celebrity to endorse her brand, and several shops locally reflect the growing demand.
Temir Dank Sun was a three-hour show with a focus on the latest collection by this famous artist, one which reflects modern styles but with a nomadic theme. It’s worth adding that the traditions inherent in Kazakh culture are becoming even more prevalent in this increasingly modern society, and the evening’s entertainment reflected that seamlessly. A small ensemble played classical favourites, soundtracks from films, and atmospheric steppe-inspired music as the show unfolded.
The slogan of the event was, Aesthetics as Internal Strength, cleverly directed by a small team including Vitaly Kupriyanov, the Visual Architect and Stage Director.
A host of performers were lined up, inclusion on a simple list by no means doing them justice, but as Oscar Wilde said, “the only thing worse than being talked about is not being talked about,” so on that basis:
Actor: Chingiz Kapin
Rap Artist: Nazar
Opera Vocalist: Bekzat
Ethno Fusion Trio: Made in KZ
Symphony Orchestra: Al Jazz
Singer: Akhmed Skak
“I came for the vibe, and I am not disappointed. It’s buzzing in here, and it’s the first time I’ve been to any kind of fashion performance, as it’s not usually my kind of thing,” said Kashika, a student, who we can imagine will be back next time.
The catwalk itself, well, call me uninformed, but I don’t believe it is standard for models to walk up and down a staircase, but when they did, it was in fascinating ambient lighting. Both Russians and Kazakhs (and perhaps others) brought the costumes – and the show – to life, to the satisfaction of the massively cosmopolitan crowd gathered on the two floors.
Many people misunderstand the ideas that underpin fashion shows. While it can be, such an event is not always meant to be a way of sneak previewing the latest everyday clothing that will hit the hangers in mainstream stores next month (and how often do we see garments on the catwalk that you know nobody would wear in real life?).
As I see it, despite not being best-placed to judge, a fashion performance is like a living art gallery, a way that the designer expresses herself and makes her mark.
As that is something Ainur Turisbek has done, in some style (aptly), we will leave the last word to her:
“These clothes are created to make our world more beautiful.”
